I’ve know only a few people that enjoy doing laundry; for most of us it’s a chore that can be put off for awhile but ultimately must be done. This particular chore gets worse the longer we put it off as the pile of dirty clothing grows. We can’t get rid of laundry but we can make it easier by learning some facts and some new techniques.

Perspiration Stains

One of the most problematic aspects of laundry is removing perspiration (sweat) stains and our efforts to avoid sweating or make it smell better only make the stains harder to get rid of. Sweat is just water but it contains minerals and acids leached from the body. Those minerals and acids are responsible for discoloring and weakening your clothing but the problem is compounded when it combines with antiperspirant.

Antiperspirants use aluminum salts to block your sweat glands; you still perspire but until the antiperspirant wears away the moisture can’t escape. If you use roll-on and put your clothing on immediately it can rub off on your shirt, blouse, or dress. As the day wears on the antiperspirant loses efficiency; its aluminum salts combine with the minerals and acids in perspiration and the result is a biological and chemical cocktail that is very harmful to fabric.

Obviously, not many of us can strip off our clothes and wash them the moment we get home from work or other activities. That’s what is recommended to take care of perspiration stains but it’s very impractical. You can try a neutral pH type deodorant or something else that is aluminum free and that will help when you do laundry. If you have perspiration stains, inspect your clothing before putting them in the dryer, as heat will set the stains. If washing didn’t do the job, soak the item in cold water with a few drops of dish soap that contains degreasers then wash them again.

You can also try color-safe bleach but never use chlorine bleach even if the clothing you are treating is white. Sweat combined with chlorine bleach will only make the stain worse.

Oil and Grease Stains

Oil and grease are tough stains to get out. The best way to treat one of these stains is to sprinkle the area with corn starch and leave it to absorb the oil. Don’t rub it in, just let it sit there and it will absorb all or most of the oil or grease. After a few hours, brush it away. If there is still some staining you can moisten the area and rub some Fels Naptha bar soap on it. This will usually get rid of the rest of the stain. Wash it as usual then check it before you put it in the dryer. Remember, drying sets a stain permanently so if the stain is still there you may want to take it to the dry cleaners.

Ketchup Stains

Ketchup stains are very common, especially when you have children.   Scrape off what you can then leave it alone if you are out somewhere; don’t rub it off because that will just drive it into the fabric. When you get home turn the garment inside out and run cold water through the stain. Pre-treat it for 20 minutes then wash the garment. Be sure to check that it’s gone before you put it in the dryer. You may have to treat it again and repeat the wash cycle. Still not out? You can take it to the dry cleaners or decorate that area with fabric paint, buttons, sequins, etc. If you decorate the stain away, don’t launder it without using Spedalon Mesh Laundry Bag!

Stains in General

Never, ever rub a stain because you’ll only be driving it deeper into the fabric and spreading it around. Blot the stain repeatedly to get as much of it out as possible then pre-treat and wash.

Is Liquid Soap Better than Powder?

Some people like liquid detergent and some prefer powder. I’ve known people who use cheaper powder detergent for warm and hot cycles and liquid for cold because they thought powder would not dissolve in cold water. There are people who spend almost as much on detergent as they do groceries, or so it seems to them. Then there are those that say they are all the same, liquid or powder, so they buy the cheapest option possible.

The truth is that soap is soap and it all does a pretty good job cleaning our clothes. There is a big difference, though, in some brands and you’ll find that difference on the label. Yes, you should read labels on everything, not just food! Sodium sulfate can be found in powdered detergent to keep it from clumping, Borax is filler that limits bacteria growth in both types of detergent, and water can be found listed on liquid detergent labels. These are not detrimental fillers but necessary for the detergents to clean our clothes. Sodium silicate prevents corrosion inside a washer so you definitely won’t mind that.

Bad and even harmful fillers are usually added to make you think the product is better for your clothes. Gluten thickens liquid detergent and makes you think it is a quality product. Dioxane is an oil-based carcinogen that makes a little powder look like a lot more. Limestone and chalk are added to increase suds and make you think your clothes are getting cleaner. These and other fillers get stuck in your clothes and grind together to shorten the life of the fabric. Plus, your skin will absorb these fillers and that’s not a good thing for your health.

There really is no difference in cleaning ability between liquid and powder detergent but you will want to look at the labels to make sure that you’re not getting anything you don’t want!

A Tip about Towels

We won’t tell you how often to wash your towels but please don’t add fabric softener to the rinse cycle. Softener actually makes your towels less absorbent and can even make them feel a bit slimy. Instead, add white vinegar for softer, more absorbent towels that feel great on your skin!

General Safety Advice

You should always clean your dryer’s lint trap after every load to prevent build up that could ignite. This is true of both gas and electric dryers. Be sure to clean the vent hose at least once a year and check the hose and vent connections to your washer and dryer every month. This will reduce the chance of fire, keep your appliances in good working order, and extend the life of your washer and dryer.